Exploring Ely and Northern Minnesota, Just Not In the Winter

When we travel anywhere from Colorado by car/camper, we normally head in three of the four directions: north, south, and west. At the end of this summer, we decided to do things a little different and headed east (and north) to to the land of 10,000 lakes, Minnesota. One of the mental barriers of driving east out of Colorado is that you have to drive about eight hours to get across eastern Colorado and either Kansas or Nebraska. Both Kansas and Nebraska have places that we enjoy, but we were looking for something more than what the Great Plains has to offer. We were looking for lakes and forests, and Minnesota definitely has that. You might say “don’t you have that in Colorado?” The answer is, sort of. We definitely have forested mountains, mostly pines and firs, with a few aspens sprinkled in here and there. As for lakes, this is an area that isn’t our states greatest natural treasure. Sure there are some, but most lakes in Colorado are man made, with enough people on them that most times it feels like you’re playing dodgeball. So if you’re looking to play in the mountains, you come to Colorado and if it’s lakes you’re after, head to Minnesota.

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Sunset on Bear Head Lake

We chose the Ely area for our base camp and more specifically, Bear Head Lake State Park, because it was centrally located to many of the types of outdoor pursuits we were interested in, like hiking, camping, and kayaking. Ely is known as the gateway town to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA), and has that outdoorsy adventure town vibe that you see in places like Moab, Utah and Boulder, Colorado. In Moab, it’s mountain bikes that are strapped to cars. In Boulder, it’s road bikes and paddle boards. In Ely, it’s all about the canoe. We brought kayaks on this trip and boy did they ever look out of place in Ely. No matter the pursuit, Ely is the gateway to whatever outdoor adventure you fancy in Northern Minnesota.

Some people asked me before we left for Minnesota “have you heard about how bad the mosquitoes are?” “Yes,” I said, I knew all about the mosquitoes, having survived the relentless attacks by the Minnesota state bird on a trip to Lake Winnibigoshish with my dad when I was 16. On that trip, the primary purpose was walleye fishing, and we caught (and ate) more than we could count. That trip was in June and the state lived up to its infamous reputation as ground zero for mosquitoes. We used so much mosquito repellent on that trip that our clothes smelled like deet for a month. I still had a great trip in spite of the mosquitoes and the annoyances that came along with them. I had a great time boating, we caught lots of fish, and I always knew I wanted to get back there someday, but it took over 30 years for that to happen.

This trip was with my wife and was during early September this past year. This time out wasn’t going to be as much about fishing as the previous trip and there was likely to be one huge benefit to picking September instead of June: there shouldn’t be too many mosquitoes in the autumn as the temperature cools down (the highs were in the 60’s and the lows were in the 30’s while we were there).

The Minnesota State Bird

Bear Head Lake State Park turned out to be the perfect place for us. It had an excellent campground with large sites just feet from a beautiful northern lake. One of my passions is hiking and there were several trails that began directly from the campground, which was nice to just wake up and go hike without having to drive to a trailhead. Most people don’t come to this area to hike though, they come to Bear Head Lake to get on the water, either for boating or fishing or both (I did both but my boat was a kayak). Fishing and kayaking are best done early and sliding into this lake around sunrise had so many rewards. There were only a handful of watercraft out that early, and most of those were kayakers. Morning mist was everywhere but only slowly burning away as the sun grew higher. Perhaps the best part of being on a lake as big as Bear Head Lake with the only boats out there being ones without engines, is being able to hear the cry of a loon. To hear a loon while paddling on a quiet misty lake is an experience like no other, it is truly the signature sound of the northern wilderness.

Loon

The smallest fish you can Possibly catch on a hook and line!

On every trip we go on there are things that we want to experience that just don’t happen for some reason, mostly that we have to get back home, to work. On this trip, we didn’t get to kayak/canoe the Boundary Waters, didn’t see the northern lights, I didn’t catch a walleye (or a pike for that matter), and we didn’t even see a moose. But what we did experience though was a place vastly different from where we live, we heard wolves howl and loons cry, I caught so many fish and not one of them was big enough to eat (I still had a blast), and I was only bitten by one mosquito, no repellent needed this time.

Moab

I’ll just get it out the way early, Moab is not for everyone! If your idea of a good time is stalking prey at the nightclub, Moab is not for you! If you like relaxing poolside with an umbrella in your drink and a cabana boy by your side, Moab is not for you, and so on. If you like being active and outside, there may not be a better place in the world for you than in Moab, Utah.

So what does the area have to offer the active traveler? First off, there are two major National Parks just outside of town that are great for hiking and sightseeing, Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park. Arches NP has Looney Tunes-like terrain which will bring back childhood memories of the Roadrunner versus Wiley Coyote with backdrops like arches, balanced rocks and the reddest side of the color spectrum in the sand and rocks. Canyonlands, for me, is the uncrowded and toned down version of the Grand Canyon. Although the canyon is not as large as the GC, it offers more chances for solitude and is a great place to hike, drive your off road vehicle (on the miles of dirt roads), or even do some long distance cycling on the White Rim Trail.

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park (as modeled by Anthony Gonzales)

Graffiti, Ancient Style (Arches NP)

Canyonlands National Park

The area is most famous however, as the mountain biking center of the universe. And the trail that elevated the area to that status has to be the Slickrock Trail at Sand Flats Recreation Area, which is a right of passage for anyone coming to mountain bike in this part of the country. Even though Slickrock is the main attraction for mountain bikers, it will likely not even make the top five rides for most people, but is certainly the trail you ride to see what you’re made of. Other popular trails include Amassa Back, Poison Spider, Porcupine Rim and many more.

The Warning (Slickrock Bike Trail)

Slickrock Bike Trail, Moab, Utah

Other popular activities in the area include Jeep and OHV trails. Although this is not something that I do when I go to this area, it looks like those who do have a great time. Even in this fairly parched landscape, the iconic Colorado River practically runs right through town. The river is known for rafting (although not really whitewater rafting in the truest sense), kayaking, and stand-up paddle boarding (SUP). The most popular day on the river is the appropriately named “the daily” which is a few hours of mostly lazy river drifting and a great way to stay cool in the heat.

One of the most commonly asked questions about Moab is “will I see snakes or scorpions?” And the answer is that you might. Moab is a very warm place in the summer and being primarily a desert environment, it’s only natural to think about snakes and other biting, stinging creatures. I have been to Moab maybe seven or eight times and have never seen a snake there. I know they’re there but still haven’t come across a single one yet. I have, however, seen a scorpion there. Scorpions are mostly nocturnal and are best spotted using a UV light to locate them. However, I only saw a scorpion because I intentionally went looking for them, had a UV light, the night was quite warm, and my wife was more patient/persistent in helping to find one. Admittedly, I liked seeing one and wish we had seen more.

Scorpion Under the UV Light

Last but not least is the town of Moab itself. Moab as a town is probably not a destination in and of itself but it is a little more than just a gateway town like Estes Park, Colorado or Gatlinburg, Tennessee. Moab is extremely close to the activities that surround it. Five miles from town and you’re at Arches National Park. In Moab proper is where you’ll find the world famous Slickrock Bike Trail with Canyonlands National Park being a little bit farther by roughly 45 minutes. You’ll find the Colorado River just minutes north of town.

There are plenty of hotels and campgrounds to stay at, as well as plenty of dining options. One food recommendation I have would be Quesadilla Mobilla. It‘s a food truck (really, a food truck!), and had to be the single best meal in town and is highly rated on Yelp. The food was reasonably priced, the proportions were large, the toppings and sauces plenty, and the taste was top notch especially after a long day of playing out in the desert.

So if you’re looking for nightlife, go to Salt Lake City (kidding), but if you’re looking for some outdoor adventure and incredibly unique scenery, few places can match what you’ll find in Moab.

Archview Campground

Sky Pond Trail – Rocky Mountain National Park

With a little bit of effort, you can access one of the most beautiful and scenic parts of Rocky Mountain National Park, an area not accessible by car.  The only way to get there is via an 8.4 mile round trip hike to a high alpine lake known as Sky Pond, which has some of the most dramatic and stunning scenery anywhere in Colorado.

The hike starts from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead, which is in a very busy part of the park, but don’t let this crowded area discourage you.  Trailhead parking is difficult to come by so get there early or take the free park shuttle.  As with most trails, a large number of people will be congregated within the first mile or so from the parking lot, with most people only trekking to Alberta Falls, just under a mile into the hike.

Alberta Falls

The Loch

The trail winds through coniferous forest and follows streams for a good part of the way leading up to Timberline Falls, Lake of Glass and eventually Sky Pond.  Depending on the time of year, you may encounter snow on the trail (like I did, hiking in mid-June).  The snow, combined with steep slopes, was difficult to walk up without falling but was significantly more difficult on the way down, as I fell twice.  Micro spikes would have helped but I probably wouldn’t have worn them anyway, (some did though) since the sections of snow on the trail were short.

A sample of the trail (June)

I found that this hike had two primary challenges, the first being the altitude.  The pond sits at 10,831 feet so you will definitely notice less oxygen up that high.  The other challenging part of this hike was a rock scramble up (and down) Timberline Falls. The added difficulty to this was, being a waterfall, the rocks were wet and therefore quite slick. A healthy fear of heights and the exposure was definitely a challenge but I made it to the top by being careful and methodical. I just told myself “don’t be a” (insert crass word), and I did fine.  After successfully negotiating the falls, it was only another 15 minutes from there to the end of the trail.

Timberline Falls

Timberline Falls

Now for the payoff, Sky Pond.  This hike was one of the best hikes I’ve done in Colorado because it basically had it all.  The hike starts in the forest, gets up timberline, follows creeks and lake shores, all while being surrounded by high alpine scenery to rival anywhere.  To me, I would rate this as a moderate hike when considering the distance traveled, the elevation gain, and that darn waterfall rock scramble.  I’ll definitely do this hike again.

The Sharkstooth

The Sharkstooth

Sky Pond

Sky Pond

Hiking During a Pandemic

I always feel better when I’m outside, where the air is fresh and the sunlight provides a healthy dose of vitamin D.  Now that the COVID-19 virus is sweeping the globe, getting outdoors sounds better than it ever has.  Many of us are following the guidelines of “shelter in place” recommendations, working from home and limiting trips to the stores.  In most places however, it is permissible to hit the trail, if not encouraged.  An exception to this is hiking on trails with high foot traffic, that are not in your local area or hiking where you put yourself, and more importantly, first responders at risk.  So stay local, stay safe, but get outside if you can.  It will do wonders for your psyche.

I managed my first hike today since the shit hit the fan and I found it was exactly what I needed.  Hikes always feel good but this one was different, like I needed it.  Admittedly, it was a bit strange at times though, a woman went 15 feet off the trail to go around me, to maintain her distancing, albeit almost triple what is recommended.  This hike was in Boulder after all so I’m used to strange things happening out there.  Extreme social distancing aside, being on the trail and away from the news, it feels like nothing is happening out there in the world.  I remember reading about hikers that were down in the Grand Canyon during 9/11 with no cell service oblivious to the events happening above the rim.  When they eventually made it out of the canyon days later, they learned the terrible news of what happened and they recalled how strange it was that there were no planes flying overhead.  On this day, if it weren’t for hikers wearing N95 masks, you’d never know there was a pandemic going on.

I admit that I do not understand any more than the next person about the virus and where the safest place to be is during all of this.  What I do know is that being outside, away from crowds is a good, and relatively safe place to be.  Just keep your distance, don’t touch anything, bring hand sanitizer,  gloves, and a mask and you can have a brief respite from the stresses of our new reality.

It’s important to keep our bodies and minds active and healthy during this time.  Get some air if you can and be safe out there!  So if you get a hike in, be safe, stay local, don’t take unnecessary risks, and obey the law!  In case you need a little inspiration, here are a few reminders of what’s out there…

 

Hot on the Trail of a Troll in Breckenridge Colorado

I really like unique hikes and this has to be one of the most unique hikes of all, because of what you find at the end, which in this case is a large troll.  However, this is not a hike in the truest sense of the word being that it is so short and very much in the center of town. The troll, named Isak Heartstone, can be reached via the Trollstigen Trail in the town of Breckenridge, Colorado. The troll was designed by Thomas Dambo, a Copenhagen based artist who specializes in reduce-reuse-recycle (the troll is a combination of all three ‘R’s’.)

The trail is very short and flat, about 1/2 mile round trip so it is perfect for families with kids.  Even without kids, a hike on the Trollstigen Trail is so different because of the wooden art troll at the turnaround.  The troll stands at about 15’ tall and does not seem out of place at all.  Breckenridge is one of many places around the world that can boast having one of these fairytale pieces of art.

The trailhead can be accessed from the center of town near the ice rink.  We walked there from the town center, just to add a few more steps since the hike itself is so short but you can also take a shuttle to the trailhead.

For more information on the other trolls Thomas has built around the world look him  up on social media to learn more about his projects and the vision he has to make the world a better place through art and recycling.

Capilano Suspension Bridge – North Vancouver

If you do any internet search for the top things to do in Vancouver, the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park will surely come up.  It is as unique as it is popular, which is I guess what most people are looking to do on vacations right?  I do not typically like to go to the heavily touristed spots, mostly because they are normally quite crowded. But during the winter months at Capilano, the crowds are significantly less than in the summer.  I also don’t like to spend a lot for tickets and this place is pricey at $53.95 CAD per person.  However, we spoke to another couple while we were taking in a Vancouver Canucks hockey game when we first arrived and they said it was a must do, especially if you go at night during the winter when the forest is decorated with lights for what the park calls Canyon Lights.  So my wife and I decided to give it a go on a cold and rainy Vancouver night.

From the moment we walked into the place, we couldn’t help but notice how clean and organized it was, the word spotless came to mind. I was still skeptical if this was going to be worth the price of admission but once I saw all of the offerings, I started to feel quite encouraged.

Most people immediately head for the parks namesake suspension bridge but we decided to do the Cliffwalk first.  The walk is along a granite canyon face and is held in place with eight cables that are connected to a single anchor point. It sounds like it isn’t enough to keep you safe but when you see it, you just know it will do the job.  As I’ve written in previous articles, I have an issue with heights so this was a true test for me, and I didn’t pee myself! Down below on the rainforest floor the Capilano River flows, and while walking along the Cliffwalk I was in awe as I saw two eagles following above the curve of the water. It was an unexpected bonus.

The Cliffwalk

Moving on to the suspension bridge, which takes you 230 above the Capilano River, you’ll sway for over 450 feet before planting your feet on terra firma on the other side.  The walk across the bridge was exciting and began to give the park a Swiss Family Robinson feel, which we really enjoyed. Beware of tourists stopping suddenly in front of you all along the bridge to capture that ‘perfect’ selfie shot.

Capilano Suspension Bridge

Once on the other side, you’ll see what is called the Treetops Adventure which is seven smaller suspension bridges strung between the evergreens as high off the ground as 100 feet.  The Swiss Family Robinson feeling is now in full swing.

Treetops Adventure

The park embraces native culture and you’ll find totem poles and other First Nations art on site.  If you manage to be here at night during the winter holiday season, you’ll be treated to lights all over the place, adding even more character to the park.

We spent over four hours in the park and enjoyed every minute of it.  It was expensive and a bit touristy but we loved it and it was so worth it.  So if you’re ever in Vancouver, you should definitely go to the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.

 

 

Hiking in Indiana? That’s right, Indiana!

I’m convinced that you can hike anywhere, even in the cities. The Irish call it “walking” and some walks are more like hikes and hikes more like walks.  Confusing?  Just put on your pack and get out there!  Ever walked in San Francisco? It’s harder than most hikes you can find in almost any National Park.  Whenever I travel to a new place, I usually get out a map and start looking for blank spaces or green spots near to where I’m traveling to.  On a recent trip to Indianapolis, I spent some time looking at a map and found some empty spaces and greenery south of the city in Brown County, near the small town of Nashville, Indiana that is.  Brown County State Park (Indiana’s largest), Hoosier National Forest, and Yellowwood State Forest all show up well on the map and roughly just and hour or so from Indy.

The hills of Brown County State Park | Indiana

So let’s just start where I did, in Brown County State Park.  The park has about 20 miles of hiking trails and another 27 that are multi-use, which compared to some other places is not much. But I didn’t come to Indiana to hike, it was on the back-end of a business trip that I extended a couple of days to see family in the area (Bloomington) and I managed a little exploring on the side as well.  My hotel was in the quaint town of Nashville about a mile from the north entrance of the park and it turned out to be the perfect place to stretch my legs and get some fresh air.  My first hike was on the 2.2 mile Fire Tower Trail (aka Trail 10) which follows ridges and ravines as a loop.  The loop begins and ends at a 90’ converted fire lookout tower that now serves as an antenna tower open to visitors to climb.  Admittedly, I have a healthy fear of heights and my first climb at the beginning of the hike ended in me seizing up about halfway to the top and turning around.  After hiking the loop, I decided to try again and this time made it up to the top.  I am actually a bit surprised that you are legally allowed to climb this tower but I’m grateful that it was. Nearby is a small nature center that I enjoyed so much that I realized that I’m getting old.  Inside, there are living and non-living (taxidermy) fauna to view.  Live animals included snakes like the Timber Rattlesnake, Copperhead, Black Rat, and Milk (red on black, friend of Jack). There is also a two-way mirror looking out into a bird feeder and this was clearly (intended pun) were all of the action was.  Very fat squirrels battled it out for the primo spots and birds (including my favorite, the cardinal) tried to stay a safe distance away from them, while still managing a free meal.

Male Cardinal

Another nice trail in Brown County State Park was the short but scenic Ogle Lake Trail.  At only 1.5 miles, the trail is really just a warmup to some of the other connected trails you can hike from this area.  I connected to the Taylor Ridge Trail, which can add another 5.5 miles onto your hike (I didn’t make it that far).

Ogle Lake

All in all, there are plenty of shorter hiking options in southern Indiana that you might enjoy the next time you’re passing through.  If you’re looking for some decent comfort food, try the Nashville General Store and Bakery in Nashville.  For really good apres randonnee beers, try Upland Brewing Company in Columbus (I had more than one Modern Tart Kettle Sour Ale).  So if you happen to be in Central Indiana and you need a nature fix for a day or two, Brown County is a good place to be.

Goody Two Shoes in Amsterdam

Most people know Amsterdam for two primary reasons: legalized soft drugs like marijuana and mushrooms as well as legalized prostitution.  However, drugs like marijuana are now legal in many places around the world, including in Colorado where I live, and Amsterdam’s soft drug culture is not as mutually exclusive as it once was. Amsterdam also has perhaps the most famous red light district in the world. But what if this sort of thing isn’t for you? Why would anyone come to this city if you aren’t into what it is most famous for?  Well, there is so much more to this city than red lights and cafe’s (where you go to smoke).  I had a great time in Amsterdam and skipped all of the things most people visit this unique city for.  So here are just a few recommendations I have for someone who wants an atypical A’dam experience:

See the Tulips

I visited Amsterdam in the spring with my father with one of his bucket list items being to see the world famous tulips of Holland. Keukenhof Gardens and the bulb fields in and around the town of Lisse were the best place to see them and both places were accessible by tour bus or public transport. Both of these flowery destinations were amazing in their own right with my father preferring Kuekenhof Gardens while I liked the fields of flowers just a little more.  The two vastly different was of seeing the flowers were both incredibly beautiful with the carefully sculpted gardens displaying more varieties of tulips and colors than I ever could imagine.  The carpeted fields around Lisse offered a glimpse into the farming side of the business with field after field of long brilliantly colored textures, one farm after another.  One uniquely Dutch way to see the fields is to rent a bike after finishing up at Keukenhof and see the fields at a slower pace than you would in a car or tour bus.  To see the tulips in full bloom, you can go from about mid-March to mid-May.  We went smack dab in the middle of that and chose mid-April to make sure we didn’t miss it, since the peak season can vary from year to year.

Kuekenhof Gardens

Bulb Fields, Lisse

Bicycle

I work in bicycling crazy Boulder Colorado, at least I thought it was crazy until coming to Amsterdam.  Boulder is a college town so there are always students zipping around campus and the outlying areas.  The city is also big on alternative energy and transportation, adding to the college cycling mindset. I have even seen people biking to work when temperatures are below zero, Fahrenheit.  Portland Oregon also has a similar mindset and cyclists there go out in some of the rainiest conditions in America. Amsterdam cyclists are on a whole other level.  Cold, they bike. Need to get across town, they bike. Dressed for work in fancy clothes, they bike.  They don’t bike to be seen. They aren’t rude or arrogant like many cyclists I’ve seen.  It is a place that has an amazing bike culture, unrivaled anywhere in the world that I have been.  At any given intersection, bikes can outnumber cars by a ratio of four to one.  One of the most fun days I had in Amsterdam was cycling through the city on a rented cruiser bike and I wish that I had done it more.

 

Drink Some Dutch Beer

The beer in Amsterdam is famous primarily for one large brewery, Heineken.  A popular tourist stop is the Heineken Experience, which is a tour of the old Heineken factory in Amsterdam, similar to the Guinness tour in Dublin.  It was well worth the price of admission (~€20) and the tour was fun and very European.  The only problem for me was that I really don’t like their beer and I prefer the smaller breweries like I’m used to at home.  The beer that I did really like was from Brouwerij ‘t IJ, which is located close to Centraal Station and was founded in 1985.  I had the IJWIT and loved it, along with an atmosphere that was both comfortable and welcoming with a mixture of locals and tourists. Bonus: there’s a windmill just outside.

Beer at Brouwerij ‘t IJ

Green is the color at Heineken

Party at the Vondelpark

 

Explore the Canals

Amsterdam is not a unique place in and because of its canals.  Venice is more famous of course, and Bruges’ canals were cozy but Amsterdam’s canals are just plain iconic.  The city is ringed by a lengthy canal system that is a mode of transportation as well as a great way for a traveler to get up close and personal with Amsterdam.  One thing you will not see, however, is people ice skating to work in winter.  Not sure where that rumor got started but locals assured me that it wasn’t true.

Eat Some (or a lot of) Poffertjes

Amsterdam, and Holland in general, are not yet famous for their food but I found something there that was so good that I ate it every day – poffertjes.  Poffertjes are basically mini Dutch pancakes usually served with powdered sugar and was by far my favorite food in the whole of the Netherlands.  I usually found them being sold by street vendors all over the city.  They taste great for breakfast! They taste good for lunch! They taste good as a snack!  They just taste good, everyday!

Explore Dutch History : Windmills

No journey to Amsterdam or the Netherlands can be considered complete without seeing some windmills, and they are hard to miss. These quintessentially Dutch landmarks can be seen in the city proper (including at the aforementioned Brouwerij ‘t IJ) or in many of the surrounding towns and countryside.  Just outside of the city in Zaandam, and accessible via public transport, are the windmills of Zaanse Schans (eight in all).  This place is very touristy but I was, after all, a tourist and didn’t mind being one. This was a fun place to get up close and personal with real windmills, with a few of them actually working, both inside and out.

Windmills at Zaanse Schans

Ride Public Transport

When I travel to cities (I do however prefer the countryside to cities), I love to use public transport whenever possible. Most cities have a tourist pass that can be paid for either by the day or for multiple days, at a discounted rate. This is usually significantly cheaper than renting a car considering that you have a rental fee, gas, and parking, not to mention the difficulty navigating and city driving.  This is definitely not a good place to have a car.  Amsterdam is the first place I’ve ever taken a vacation without having a rental car and it was definitely the right choice. I was able to purchase the Amsterdam and Region Travel Ticket at the iamsterdam office at Schiphol Airport, for three days for only €36.50. The pass was easy to use and took me to all of the major areas I intended to visit during my stay.

Honorable mentions:

A’dam Tower – Great view of the city and a unique restaurant at the top.  Take the elevator up for another uniquely Euro Dutch experience.

Museums – Although I didn’t get to visit a single museum while in Amsterdam the city is famous for them.  You’ll find the Rijksmuseum, the Anne Frank House, The Van Gogh Museum, and the Rembrandt House, just to name a few.  Next time…

Ajax Football Club – Another one for next time but Ajax football fans are said to be some of the most passionate in all of Europe, so try attending a game at the Johan Cruyff Stadium if they’re in town while you are.

If you want to enjoy a great city without those other things, Amsterdam is a wonderful place to spend a vacation.  I can’t wait to get back!

 

 

The 24 Hour Layover in Iceland : Top 5

With the 24 hour layover in Reykjavik Iceland becoming more and more common, we’ve composed this list of our Top 5 things to do in Iceland during a 24 hour layover.  In descending order they are:

#5 – The Sun Voyager

The Sun Voyager near the Sæbraut road in Reykjavik is a unique art sculpture on the shores of the Greenland Sea and is one of the more popular stops in a city that has more art than you might expect.

The Sun Voyager – Photo by Brian Wallace

#4 – Hallgrímskirkja Church

Hallgrímskirkja Church in Reykjavik is a great place in the city to get your bearings.  The church is seen easily from almost anywhere in Reykjavik and it is centrally located, sitting atop a large hill with a commanding view of the rest of the city.

The view of Reykjavik from Hallgrímskirkja Church                                                                             Photo by Sharon Ang – Pixabay.com

Hallgrímskirkja – Photo by Brian Wallace

#3 – Icelandic Street Food

Lunch at Icelandic Street Food was the best and cheapest meal we had in our 24 hours in Iceland.  My Dad and I had all you can eat soups and deserts for about $38 USD with a couple of drinks tacked on as well.  The atmosphere was a little quirky (which fits well with Reykjavik) and the people there were very friendly.

Icelandic Street Food in Reykjavik- Photo by Brian Wallace

The bill, not bad for Iceland – Photo by Brian Wallace

#2 – Driving the Backroads

Driving the backroads near Hafnarfjörður was a great highlight if for nothing else than it was totally unplanned.  We had an awkward amount of time in Reykjavik before our flight left for home from Keflavik so I took a quick look at the map and saw that we could take the back way to Keflavik from the town of Hafnarfjörður to kill some time.  Soon after turning off of the main highway, we saw in the distance what looked like drying racks that had some unknown “stuff” hanging from it.  The “stuff” turned out to be drying fish heads and the smell was nearly unbearable but it was the best worst smell ever. We were richly rewarded for venturing off the main road without a plan.  There was also beautiful scenery along the way to the airport but forever burned into my memory, as well as my nostrils, will be the fish head drying racks of Hafnarfjörður.

Admittedly, I was glad these weren’t shark fins

#1 – The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon in Grindavik is everything you’ve imagined it to be.  So much has been written about it before so I will not try to spin new superlatives to describe it.  I spent the better part of 10 days in Europe with my Dad and can honestly say that the three hours or so we spent at the Blue Lagoon was the best part of the trip, especially for my Dad.  You can see by the photo below that my normally very reserved father was relaxed and truly enjoying himself and had found his happy place.  This Blue Lagoon is expensive but is so worth it, especially if you’re only in Iceland for a 24 hour layover.

So if you’re flying to Europe through Reykjavik, consider a one day layover (or more), you will probably end up calling it the best stopover you’ve ever had.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Away From The Car… In Yellowstone

If you don’t get more than 100 feet from your car when you go to Yellowstone National Park (YNP) in Wyoming that would be a shame, but I will not judge you… however I would encourage you to hike your way to the front of the line.  In doing so, you’ll leave the vast majority of the parks visitors far behind.  YNP has some of the most incredible roadside attractions nature can offer: steaming geysers, large herds of bison, elk and deer, as well as apex predators like wolves and bears.  But all of this nature in one place has one big disadvantage: Disneyland-like crowds with no skip the line pass to make viewing it all easier.

Bison or Buffalo?

My wife and I recently spent a few days in Yellowstone and roughly split our time equally between seeing large swaths of the park from, or very near to, our car with the other half of our trip walking into the woods to experience a much different Yellowstone than most people do.  From the car, there are the massive Yellowstone Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone as well as huge herds of bison that seem very comfortable weaving through the cars and people who dare to get too close.  Bears are often seen here from your car and even wolves show face for those who are either lucky, or patient, or both. There are also thermal features within close proximity to parking lots such as the famous Old Faithful Geyser and the incredible colors of the Grand Prismatic Spring.

Lower Yellowstone Falls

If you get out of your car and venture into the woods, you may be rewarded with a much more intimate experience in one of America’s most popular national parks. Our first hike in the park was 4.8 miles round trip to Lone Star Geyser, which can erupt up to 45 feet into the sky. This geyser erupts every three hours so timing is everything, and we lucked out and arrived (with no planning mind you) only 10 minutes before the geyser went off.  The hike is uphill to the geyser but is not steep and follows an old road that has been closed to automobile traffic (bikes are allowed). A few minutes of waiting after reaching the end of the road, the geyser began to pick up steam (pun intended) and showed rumbling signs that an eruption would be coming soon.  The geyser erupted for about 18 minutes with water shooting up first, then a few minutes of steam and it was a wonderful reward for the relatively short 2.4 mile hike to get there.  We felt like our efforts to have hiked there were instantly rewarded as there were only about 10 other people there to witness this very cool display whereas Old Faithful can have as many as 2,000 people watching an eruption.  It was also refreshing to have an unobstructed view of the geyser with no signs or ropes in the way and the best part was that it truly felt like this is how we were meant to see it, au natural so to speak.  We worked for this experience and we were richly rewarded for our efforts.

Lone Star Geyser

Our second hike was to see Fairy Falls which is accessed near the very busy Grand Prismatic Spring area.  Once you get past the large crowds of this popular spot, you’ll find a much smaller group of sightseers on the way to the falls.  Fairy Falls is a very tall (197 feet) cascade, one of the tallest in the park, but for us the true gem of this hike unexpectedly turned out to be Imperial Geyser.  This geyser bubbled and burped the entire time we were there and again there was hardly a soul there, this time only four other hikers.  If you make this an out and back, the distance is around six miles, but there are also options to add more distance by linking to other trails in the area, which we did to add another three miles or so.  While on one of these connector trails, we came across a lone male bison just off trail that really capped off what was a very unique hike. Seeing a big bison from your car can be intimidating so imagine seeing one out on the trail!  We stayed back a safe distance to take some photos and didn’t want to end up on the news like so many others recently who have gotten too close to a wild bison.

Imperial Geyser

Imperial Geyser

Not everyone can hike but if you can, do.  I’m not trying to diminish the experience for others who do like to see the park from the relative safety of their cars and only walk the boardwalks. We did our fair share of this type of sightseeing, just like everyone else and it was great.  However, wildlife encounters seem to have a more authentic feeling when you see them from the trail instead of the road. The power of a wild buffalo is more pronounced when you don’t have your car to save you.  Walking through forests that have grizzly bears heightens your awareness to your surroundings (carry bear spray) and that also adds a different dynamic to the experience.  Geysers and other natural features experienced miles from the nearest parking lot mean that you might have it all to yourself, without man-made barriers.

Twilight on Yellowstone Lake

So, if you can get a hike or two in during your stay, do it and you’ll be glad you did. Enjoy a more secluded Yellowstone experience because most people will be at the lodge, in their car, or never far from it, and that means you can experience something rare in Yellowstone, solitude.

Bison in Lamar Valley